July 24, 2009
Smokies Challenge Adventure Run

After I heard about a crew taking on this beast, I decided two days beforehand to join them. Mohammed Idlibi, Matt Kirk, Mike Day and his daughter met up for a pre-race dinner in Bryson City, and then headed toward Fontana to start the adventure just after sunset.

Matt waited for a midnight start but the rest of us began around 9:00. We crossed Fontana dam and started up the road. We then ascended on trail. I fell behind about 200 yards in. My only goal was to finish. I took my time and hiked all of the climbs.

Toward the top of the first climb, I heard multiple owls letting out their eerie calls. It is other worldly being in the middle of nowhere at night, hearing these fabulous creatures. They make no sounds with their wings but make up for it scaring the bejeezus out of hikers.

After being alone for a long while, I saw some lights ahead. I thought that I was gaining on mike and Mo but it turned out to be hikers coming toward me. That was unexpected in the least.

I passed the first trail junction and had a little downhill. I finally got in some running. The trail became moderate with small climbs and small descents. I was starting to enter cruise mode and then a noise startled me. A bear was off the trail about 20 yards or so. That's not generally a problem but I heard the bear circle back and follow me from a distance. I'd never experienced a bear tracking me before.

The noise behind me ceased and I trudged on through the night. Mountain after mountain, up and down, repeated repeatedly. Eventually, I came into a clearing with a series of heath balds, called Spence Fields. Views opened up on either side and the lights of the towns shone brightly.

Daylight slowly crept up as I approached Thunderhead Mountain. The east side has a steep, rocky downhill, on which I slid a good deal but didn't leave my feet. Daylight tends to have an energizing effect on me so I picked up my pace a bit.

I soon encountered a shelter where Lily, Matt's fiancee, was staying and had water all ready for each of us. I filled up and headed out, knowing that Matt was soon to be nipping at my heels, despite having started several hours after the rest of us. Evidence of wild boars was prevalent for the next quarter mile. They had rooted all around the trail, doing substantial damage to the undergrowth. I have still yet to actually see one.

On a steep climb nearing Silers Bald, Matt caught up to me. he hiked with me for a bit and then continued on his quest for the fastest transit of the Smokies. I struggled up the series of climbs which culminates in the ascent of Clingman's Dome. It started to get warm and the sun beat down. The false summits were getting to me and I was out of water. I knew the aid at Clingman wouldn't still be there when I made it. It looked like the end of the line for me.

When I made it to Clingman's, I searched for aid but it was nowhere to be found. I was, however, greeted by two megaultrarunners and friends who just happened to be doing some hiking with family, Susan Donnelly and Rob Apple. They only have about 800 ultras under their belts, collectively.

I hoped to find water on the trail and decided to continue. The trail between Clingman's and Newfound Gap is by far my favorite section of trail. It's lush and scenic with assorted mosses and is thick with red spruce and Fraser Fir. At a side trail, I considered heading down to a shelter and a spring to refill but didn't want to add an extra mile to do so. I continued on the AT and heard a trickle. It was a glorious sound and it flowed out of the ground like a spigot. I experienced the very best water of my life. I was on the verge of calling it a day, parched and dehydrated, and this super clean water was flowing from the source. needless to say, it energized me and took off with a renewed vigor. An extended downhill greeted me at the optimal time. I finally started to make some good time!

I ran into some hikers and talked with them for a few minutes. Upon hearing of my endeavor, they were impressed and aghast at how ridiculous an endeavor it was.

The trail moves well coming into Newfound Gap, but I was still in for one more surprise in the final half mile. I was cruising along and heard a little snap of a branch to my left. I turned, did a double take and stopped. I noticed a bear about six feet away, sitting on top of a bush. She snarled at me, a first for any bear. I then noticed why as there were two cubs just behind her. I started jogging again and left them all alone. I soon found myself at Newfound Gap.

Mike Day was there as well as Greg Paige. Mike had called it a day but Mohammed and Matt were still on the trail. Greg saw to it that I got my stomach filled and had everything I needed to continue on my journey. I was feeling outstandingly well and didn't have to think about whether I should continue. My body said go so I went on my way.

I was done with the ridiculous climbing and looked forward to some more level running. I conveniently forgot just how much more climbing there actually was. I took my time and rested on the frequent boulders. I ran into Susan and Rob again. They would take on the Smokies themselves in the near future.

It took a good while to reach the Icewater Shelter. From there it did level out a bit and Charlie's Bunion was coming up soon. The Bunion is loaded with rock outcroppings. It's a fantastic place to explore but is also quite dangerous. I didn't stick around long and headed on down the trail.

Nightfall wasn't far off. I'd hoped to have just ten miles after dark but wound up with about 20. By the time I approached Tricorner Knob, it was getting dark. The sunset seemed to last forever and was visible almost constantly from the trail as it headed north a bit. The last vestiges of the sunset faded into black and I was in for another long night on the trail.

It got extremely dark and the foliage became thicker and thicker. Some of these seemingly impenetrable peaks must be traversed for the SB6K. Fortunately, I could stay on the trail for SCAR.

The mountains tallied again as I inched closer tom the goal. I'd done this section in reverse previously and I recalled a much smoother and flatter trail. They always seem this way when I'm fresh but I now had 50+ miles on my feet, which were really starting to feel the pain. I'd done 80 miles at Mohican five weeks prior to SCAR. It was muddy and there were many deep stream crossings, leading to blisters, epic blisters. The blisters on the balls of my feet became so large that they were no longer just on the bottoms of my feet. They had crept up along the sides of my feet as well. My feet still had no entirely healed even after five weeks.

The pain increased and I had to start sitting along the trail more frequently to relieve the pain. I felt every rock on the trail and it was getting difficult to continue. I seriously expected to spend at least several hours in a shelter. At less than six miles to go I decided to tough it out and finish. The last climb just about killed me but then it was all downhill to the finish.

I started doing more running and my speed increased dramatically and soon I found myself losing control, heading for a major wipeout. I slowed down a bit but continued to move faster than I had all day and night. It took longer than anticipated to reach the bottom of the descent. It just kept going and going. Every time I thought I was finished, the trail extended itself. Eventually, I came to the road and my journey was complete. There was no fanfare and even nobody there to greet me. I was a little unnerved at the lack of anyone at all, expecting Mohammed and Matt to be camping there.

I sat down for a while and then lay down, trying to sleep. I felt like an easy target for any wild animal so it was tough to even nod off. I did get some sleep and awakened at daybreak. Mike Day and family arrived shortly thereafter and we headed home.

I had done it with just two days prior to think about it. 18,500 feet of climb and 71 miles of trail and rock. I'd done it 99+% by myself. It's actually tougher than some hundreds.

B_Rex